Getting from Chiang Mai to Chiang Dao, Thailand
Visualize the inside of a bus that looks like a 50’s dinner, with lots of chrome. We grabbed the last two seats, or so we thought. Turns out that what looked like two-to-a-row seating is three-to-a-row seating, which we found out as folks piled in at each stop.
Then I made the mistake of giving my better, closer-to-the-window seat to a tiny Thai woman my mom’s age. (AKA ancient) So one of my butt cheeks was hanging off the seat the whole trip, and my legs were jammed into two young guys on one side, and an unhappy middle-aged woman on the other. Tommy had to take a seat at the back of the bus. And when I looked back, two guys were sleeping on him. By the time the bus stopped at Chiang Dao, it was so crowded that Tom had to climb over the seat to get off the bus. (We’re too old for this, I think. But it turns out there’s a VIP air conditioned bus for 2 bucks more. Take it.)
We’re relieved to arrive, but starved and a tad cranky too. We rolled our suitcases along the street until we found a joint with people in it. I nosed around to see what they were eating, then pointed to what looked good in the chafing dishes, adding “tourist spicy, not spicy,” which everyone seems to understand.
If your grandma was Thai she’d probably cook this meal for you — a plate of coconut curry chicken for me, spicy enough pulled pork for Tommy, rice, a side of vegetables — sautéed kale, steamed pumpkin and baby eggplant. As ever, the water came in what looked like metal WWII army surplus mess kit cups, filled with ice, each with a tiny straw. All for $3.57, including freshly fried potato and banana chips that we took for snacks, as we’re staying out of town. Life is sweet.
The Best Day
After a so-so night, during which Tommy was convinced there was an animal in our damp room, we rented a motorbike and headed out.
When I first met him 35 years ago, Tom had a bike. This was his first time on one since then. But, it’s the only way to see this dramatic landscape, with its limestone mountains, fields of rice, peanuts and shallots. So we strapped on our ill-fitting helmets and headed off. 
First stop, heading north, were the hot springs, which felt like a sweet hangout for Thai families, soaking clean on a Saturday. Kids splashing in the water, everyone enjoying themselves. We were the oddities, and I would bring shorts and a tee shirt if I went back, or just dip my feet in. The Thai women wore their clothes in the water, so my one-piece suit, modest by Western standards, felt naked. Strangely, after a short soak, we both had that spacey hot springs feeling.
On the bike again, we hit Pha Dang National Park, where we took a short hike to the waterfall. Then we stood in the tropical forest; the rays of intense sunlight filtering through the leaves rendered Tommy almost invisible for a moment. We could have hiked around longer; it’s a huge park, but we were on a mission.
On the road again, we drove past a checkpoint, bearing right to what our innkeeper called a Chinese Village on his map. We didn’t note the name, but followed his directions to hit the second noodle place on the left. (The name, it turns out, was Tayong Yunnan Noodle Restaurant.)
This typical looking open-to-the-street restaurant makes fresh noodles every day. We pulled up, slipped off our helmets and ordered a combo of wontons and long noodles, mine in a soup, Tom’s dry, both with pork. Immediately, I tipped the tiny bowl of spicy pickled greens accompanying mine into my soup for sparkle and punch. Then, as I’m about to take my first bite, I spotted crescents of pleated gyoza browning in a skillet. So I pointed and smiled for those too.
Then time slowed. We were slurping silken noodles, slippery wontons into our mouths. Welcome home noodles: if this place had been next door, we would have been savoring this bowl of noodles three times a day. .(More below.)
Sated, we looked around us, amused to see clear, English signs and color food pictures in what felt like the middle of nowhere. An Aussie eating in the adjacent table was as surprised to see us as we were to see him. He was volunteering a The Borderless Friendship Foundation, a regional non-profit. After we expressed interest, we followed him on our bike out of town to their headquarters.
The organization has multiple projects, including an orphanage for children, many whose parents died of aids from the sex trade in Myanmar. One slim girl passed by the cross hatch bamboo room where we sat. She had been sold by her mother, but she was rescued by her dad, who brought her to the orphanage to live.
They also helped form a farmers’ collective. Two interviews with Pramote Eua-amuay, the organization’s founder, are in this post below the next picture of him and his son, Thak. One interview discusses the collective, the other GMOs.
After we chatted, Pramote caught me off guard, by handing me a microphone. And so I spoke briefly to the farmers assembled there for a meeting, while he translated, a surreal experience. I was honored to be there, and heartened by his work. (The Foundation is well worth a donation.)
Short, worthy interview with the Borderless Friendship Foundation’s founder about a farmers’ collective on the Thai-Myanmar border.
How GMO issues are reaching rural Thailand, a short interview.
By the 50 kilometer ride back, I’d transcended my motorcycle fears. And that’s even though the Thai drive on left side of the road, and Tom made a brief error that he instantly corrected. In fact, by this time Joni Mitchell’s All I want was playing full blast in my brain. Clutching Tommy, watching the sun lower in the sky it’s going: High on The Lonely Road and I am Traveling, Traveling, Traveling, looking for something what could it be?
We stopped briefly at a closed wat, red and white against the deep green mountains and farmland. And again to fill our baby tank with gas.
Then at the station, I lost my cool and announced “This is the best day of my life!”
Tom laughed, answering “The BEST day?”
Well, it rated high.
(More below.)
500 Steps
The next day we headed up Wat Tham Pha Plong’s 500 steps — Tommy counted 510 — lined with forest and Buddhist sayings in English and Thai.
The view from the Wat wasn’t really easy to photograph on my little iphone 4, so we both sat and simply jubilated. The mountains with the mist coming off them made me slap myself. Why have I been walking past those Asian landscapes in the Metropolitan Museum of Art? Calm and satisfied, I felt ready to do less on our travels, breathe and look around me. (More below.)
Food
Lest I leave out my beloved chow we ate at both Nest 1 and 2, which are the better restaurants around here, both worthy. Nest 2 was by far our favorite, for its mountain view and superb Northern Thai food. But also for its chef, who helped me mitigate Northern Thai food’s intense heat. Sticky rice on a plate, spoonful of food on top of it, sans sauce. Then gradually add a touch of sauce, as much as you can take. (More below.)
There’s an extensive menu, with specials ranging in price, high for Thailand but a US bargain — all using fresh, quality ingredients. (And a much less than the westernized menu at Nest 1) Later we went back both for the food and the day-time view.
I was craving vegetables, and was rewarded with an elegant stir fry with sticky rice. But I couldn’t resist the herbaceous Northern Thai sausage, a delight. We also loved the deep fried banana slices with lime ice cream. Good food, sophisticated presentation, perfecto setting? I tried to review the restaurant on trip advisor, but only found Nest 1. As it turns out, the chef doesn’t want too many customers. She worries she’ll get people’s hopes up and they’ll be disappointed. I don’t think so.
Practical Stuff
To Do
People go to Chaing Dao for the Chiang Doa Cave, a fine thing to do on the afternoon you arrive. It’s large, but doesn’t have the classic Carlsbad Cavern like stalagmites and stalactites. We didn’t take the $3 tour, so maybe we missed something. Hikers and birders? Doi Chaing Dao Wild Life Sanctuary and Mountain. (More below)
The Town
We stayed on the cave end of town, which is prettier, more countrified. But the food is pricier there, and it’s a $4 ride, good hike or bike ride to town. There are a few places eat near us, and the Cave Bar, a friendly Indiana Jones type place with a warm and informative owner. (More below.)
Places to Stay
Seems like Nest 1, 2 or at Home Guest House are best, but the former two were booked, and we didn’t spot the last one ‘til we poked around. Our room at Malee’s was 850 baht ($23) a night for the lowest level bungalow, and more like a hostel than a guest house. And the grounds are funky hippy, with a teak Thai twist, if you go for that kinda thing. Still, Malee’s brother was lovely, rented us a motor cycle, and gave us directions for our ride. Breakfast is good, but not included, nor is much else.
