Winter’s Gold

A love affair with butternut squash…. I came late to winter squash. But like all new converts, I’m a zealot, especially about butternut, winter’s gold — endlessly versatile, packed with good flavor and nutrition. In my household, it’s a seasonal staple for soups, stews and more. Butternut is widely available right now, from fall harvest […]

Roasted Chinese Chicken

You’re going to love this juicy bird, because it’ll perfume your kitchen with ginger and anise and arrive well-browned with hoisin glaze. My old neighbor, Ruth, raised meat chickens and I’m the beneficiary. Hers were fed on whatever they could find around the yard during the warm months, along with grain raised up county, so […]

Weekday Chinese Cabbage 2 Ways

My mother-in-law called my husband half lace-curtain and half shanty Irish. He calls himself neither, but has an Irish passion for cabbage and potatoes, which I have learned to embrace. Right now my house boasts both the giant Chinese cabbage used here and large glass crock with half-fermented multicolored sauerkraut with ginger and anise. I […]

Giving thanks

My father adored family feasts. And every large meal ended with: “We need a sweet to shout finis!” So on this Thanksgiving, the first since his he died, he was with us in spirit — cracking snappy, if harsh, jokes, mooning over my brother-in-law’s wine selection, criticizing my kale salad and “to shout finis,” savoring […]

Thanksgiving Leftover Wrap

Thanksgiving has always been my mom’s favorite holiday, and leftover’s night was always one of my favorite dinners. I  often make a gigantic turkey for Thanksgiving with large batches of side dishes, because leftovers taste even better than the main event. (Especially once I’ve relaxed and the feasting is over.) This wrap uses the classic […]

Perfect Potato Latkes

You don’t have to be Jewish to enjoy these honeys, which use local apples, parsnips, onions, sour cream and potatoes, if you can find them. (I had trouble, but don’t get me started.) The parsnip adds a touch of earthy sweetness to the traditional flavor, and underestimated fresh apple sauce is always heaven sent. I […]

Bulgur and Shiitake Stuffed Mushrooms

At Leslie Taft’s shiitake farm in Housatonic before she moved to Maine These nostalgic treats make a stress free Thanksgiving side, because they can assembled ahead, refrigerated, then cooked while the turkey is waiting to be carved. Local dried mushrooms, shallots and cheese abound. (Hawthorne Valley Farm makes what they call an Alpine Cheese with […]

Holiday Roasted Roots

No recipe needed Seasonal roots make a perfect holiday side, but they’re also a winter staple in my home — eaten hot out of the oven, reheated just a bit and served on a sandwich, lathered with pesto, blended together, then added to broth for a soup,, even eaten cold out of the fridge as […]

Rant #408:) — And now produce?

Alert: Buried the lead at the bottom….. I — and you too? — keep falling in love with food that gets “discovered,” then mangled. Think Sushi, which I savored with my dad in the early 60’s, each piece lovingly prepared to order at the sushi bar by Ya Chan, who hand-picked crab right out of […]

Heavenly Brussels Sprouts

Red Fire Farm Brussels Sprouts without a recipe. My sisters call them parakeet heads, but we love ’em,  — roasted with whole shallots, steamed and tossed fresh lemon juice and  tamari, any which way. Or try them Momofuko-style with a fish sauce vinaigrette in this adapted recipe from food52, an excellent recipe site. My favorite […]